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069 _a01111647
090 _aGT 615 .S74 1997
090 _aGT 615 .S74 1997
100 1 _aSteele, Valerie.
_967309
245 1 0 _aFifty years of fashion :
_bnew look to now /
_cValerie Steele ; photographs from the Museum at the Fashion Institute of Technology, New York, by Irving Solero.
260 _aNew Haven :
_bYale University Press,
_cc1997.
300 _avii, 167 p. :
_bill. (some col.) ;
_c29 cm.
336 _2rdacontent
_atext
_btxt
337 _2rdamedia
_aunmediated
_bn
338 _2rdacarrier
_avolume
_bnc
504 _aIncludes bibliographical references (p. 163-164) and index.
520 0 _aValerie Steele begins by discussing the impact of the Second World War on the international fashion system, explaining, for example, how the success of Christian Dior's "New Look" was the result of sweeping social and economic changes that included a shift from the atelier to the global corporate conglomerate. In the 1950s, Steele argues, developments in the world of fashion were influenced by sexual politics and the anxieties associated with the Cold War: social conformity and gender stereotypes led to such phenomena as "wife dressing" and "the man in the gray flannel suit". Steele traces the fashion revolution of the 1960s, which smashed both social and sartorial rules as "swinging London" inaugurated its own new dictatorship of youth. She describes the rise of the women's movement and the hippies' anti-fashion sentiment, which ushered in a new freedom of choice in the 1970s, "the decade that taste forgot". She finds that the 1980s, often described as "the decade of greed", was actually a more complicated period, during which Calvin Klein jeans as well as suits by Armani became notorious yuppie status symbols. And she shows that the fashions of the 1990s, emphatically postmodernist, have repeatedly returned to the themes of retro, ethno, and techno styles.
650 0 _aCostume
_zUnited States
_xHistory
_y20th century.
_934940
650 0 _aFashion
_zUnited States
_xHistory
_y20th century.
_967310
710 2 _aFashion Institute of Technology (New York, N.Y.).
_bMuseum.
_921272
852 _9p45.00
_y01-31-1999
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